Koke'e Cabin

Stayed the last four nights up at the cabins at Koke'e, the state park up above Waimea Canyon. I believe the polite term would be rustic: luxury accommodations compared to camping out, but very basic no-frills and frankly not exactly clean even by cheap hotel standards. Compared to a tent on the ground, you have real floors and walls, a full kitchen, hot water, shower, toilet, and a wood-burning stove. Sheets and towels come in a big plastic bag, self-service. To complete the picture it must be said the cabins are old and it shows, minimally repaired, mattresses and blankets showing their age, all with a distinct smell of mildew. By the third day you get used to it.

Now the good part: it's absolutely quiet, few guests, and you are in the middle of miles and miles of natural forest. No TV in the rooms! If this were developed as a resort with swimming pool, full restaurants and bars, the works, it would absolutely ruin it. Things are much the way they were when this is built and I think that's best.

The lodge has a restaurant open for breakfast and lunch (9 to 3) with a small shop. The hours are inconvenient for hiking - breakfast at 9 makes a late start, and getting back before (last order) 2:30 makes for a short day. Presumably the staff makes the trek up here daily from two (about 30 minutes one way) bringing supplies so it's understandable the hours are limited. Staff is friendly, service is a little slow; the food is home cooked but nothing special, service is on paper plates with plastic utensils, quite adequate for such a remote location. Here you could do meals in the cabin kitchen or walk to the restaurant and have it all done for you.

If you plan to stay here, a few tips:

• bring soap and shampoo (not provided, very expensive at the gift shop)
• dress warmly (it can get very chilly over night)
• plan meals (restaurant hours are limited and the menu is limited, too)
• bring a reading light if you can (the interior lighting is minimal)

Come here to disconnect and get away, and as long as you compare it to camping out then it's pure luxury. By the way up here there is no cell reception, no internet access (just a pay phone up by the lodge). Wouldn't have it any other way.