Categories

art (2) culture (4) flora (17) gov (23) grinds (25) hale (10) hiking (25) lit (3) local (54) log (3) maui (5) meta (16) politics (8) recipe (6) relo (11) travel (70)

February 22, 2013

My Kauai: North

Swinging around the Na Pali cliffs going clockwise around the island takes us to the other end of the road at the north shore. This area is where the Kauai surfing community is centered.

Since you will be driving around be aware that this place is famous for one-lane bridges, seven or eight of them to get all the way to the end of the road. As always, yield to oncoming traffic, but after no more than seven cars cross in one direction local custom dictates stopping to let the other side come through. (This works surprisingly well and the locals are dead set against any "modernization" widening any of their bridges.) Also, it's a gorgeous drive so if you are gawking please get safely off the road and let local traffic go on ahead at any turn out.

Ke'e Beach is at the very end of the road. It's a nice beach that's fairly well protected and when the waves get big you always need to be extra careful on the north shore. When the water is calm this is a nice place to snorkel with rocks and reef protecting the inner waters. Parking is limited to 30 or 40 cars and fills up early (get there well before 8am is best) or there is more space down the road but a good hike back.

The Kalalau Trail begins off the parking lot at Ke'e taking you down the Na Pali coast.  (For all these hikes, the only way back out is retracing the way you came. Start plenty early, bring plenty of water, and avoid wet conditions unless you like playing in the mud.) Very briefly:

  • First portion of the trail is worth hiking even a mile in an back for some nice views down the coastline. Even the first part of the trail involves a lot of climbing, uneven surface, and can be slippery in wet weather.
  • Hanakapi'ai beach [link] is two miles in and gives you a taste of what the coast is like. The stream running down the valley and out to sea can rise suddenly, plus the surf is notoriously dangerous here. Sadly, someone lost their life attempting to cross back from the stream just yesterday, and over fifty people spend the night on the beach unable to cross back safely until Rescue showed up.
  • Hanakapi'ai falls [same link] is another two miles up the valley (that makes a tough eight miles round trip) and is a great hike if you are up for the effort and the elements allow it.
  • Beyond Hanakkapi'ai you are going to be doing a very long day hike or camping, which will require permits. The rules change frequently so check with Hawaii state parks.
Limahuli Garden is the north shore NTBG location and a wonderful place to visit (entrance fee). This is where I have been helping to build a hale.

Beaches abound here of course all the way back to Hanalei, including Tunnels, Lumahai, and crescent-shaped Hanalei Bay.

Hanalei is a small town turning somewhat touristy but retaining some local color. See Local Grinds.

Up the hill from Hanalei is Princeville, a pricey, newly built community that looks like it belongs in California. I avoid it.

Kilauea is right where the coast begins to bend around to the east so I will arbitrarily make it the last outpost labeled "North". It's a tiny town with an up-scale shopping area now, including a good bakery/pizza place. The lighthouse is the signature destination here.

There are plenty good beaches (a whole other set of articles I need to write) all along here on both sides of Kilauea but I'll stop here and declare any further to be "East" coming soon.


No comments:

Post a Comment