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February 16, 2013

Waimea Canyon Kukui Trail to the river

The Kukui Trail leads from the west edge of Waimea Canyon down over 2000 feet (over 2.5 miles) to the Waimea river descending from Koke'e forests through dry runoffs through more forest near the river. From the base there - Wiliwili camp - I headed upriver into Koaie Canyon. Previously I thought this was an epic hike: nearly ten miles and almost half mile vertical roundtrip, but I guess I'm in better shape because it wasn't so bad. Do bring lots of water: I went through 2 liters to the last gulp.

Morning view from Kukui Trail of Waimea Canyon
About this hike:
  • early start recommended for more time at the river
  • not recommended in or following rain, the steep trail could be slippery
  • 5 mile round-trip with 2200 feet vertical
  • trail can be steep, slippery rocks
  • bring bug spray, mosquitoes down by river
  • footwear and hiking poles suitable to river crossing may be needed unless water level is low
  • bring extra water (at least 2 liters or more)
The Kukui Trail is near the 9 mile marker of the Koke'e highway 550, just a small sign on the right by the road. At the same trail head there also is a nature trail loop featuring an extensive collection of native plants, just an easy 1/4 mile loop. This trail head has no parking lot but there room on the side of the highway on the opposite side (proceed a short distance past the sign, there's a left turn into a gated utility area with plenty of room to turn around and go back to park across the street).


Waimea Canyon view
From the road follow signs to the Kukui Trail trail head that starts to the right just past a small roofed shelter. Soon the trail descends in a succession of switchbacks through lightly wooded terrain.

At left is the view of the canyon from this section of trail. At a few points in the first mail of the trail there are nice overlooks up, across, and down the canyon (but not as far as the ocean). For an easier hike or a late start, you can just go out a mile or so and back just for the views. Below is a rainbow on the canyon wall to the north.

Beyond the mile point the trail becomes more exposed (the only concern would be sliding, there are no dangers of falling) as you get out into more barren terrain with crumbly rock gravel and heavy erosion. Continue down perhaps half a mile over this sloping moon-like landscape (if the moon had heavy rain erosion).

The next layer working down the canyon toward the bottom is a forested area with kukui (candlenut trees) extending further down the side of the canyon, fairly steep at points. Expect plenty of mosquitoes here. Watch the trail as it becomes a little hard to follow at a couple of points. After a good half mile descending through the trees the trail levels out approaching the river.

The trail leads to Wiliwili Camp (outhouse, simple shelter and picnic table) along side the very 4WD road that runs along the river here, on the near side of the river at this point, crossing the river repeatedly as it winds along the bottom of Waimea Canyon. I honestly do not know how you would get a vehicle down here. Maybe an all-terrain vehicle could get in via the river from Waimea at the end of the canyon where the river empties into the ocean.

Waimea canyon
If you are prepared to cross the river you can go either way, upriver or down: I went up toward Koaie Canyon. River crossings were easy - last time I was down here the water level was higher and I wasn't prepared to cross knee-deep water so turned around earlier that time.

Heading upriver the road rises and then drops down to the river for the first of four easy crossings stepping across rocks, no need to get the feet wet.


Further upriver the banks narrow and the easiest way to proceed is just to wade up the shallow water. Past the fourth crossing, less than a mile from Wiliwili Camp, there's a low dam and a shack and outhouse. Beyond that neither bank is passable so it would be wading through the water. I decide to make the turnaround as I'm nearly halfway through my water supply.
Papyrus

The return leg just reverses back the same sequence. It's around noon so the sun is nearly overhead and more intense. Near the river mosquitoes are relentless in places. On the return I meet three other hikers: one couple and one solo. Since this trail is almost certainly out-and-back the one solo guy behind me was likely the last person on the trail for today (Saturday, Feb. 16).

On this hike I started down the trail at 8am in full morning light, a good starting time with nice views of the canyon with the sun just up above above the rim on the far side. On the way down I met one guy headed uphill just above the lower forest, he said he wanted to sneak in one last hike before he had to leave and had hoped to shoot photos at sunrise but it had been too cloudy.

When I returned home, unpacking the car I realized my hiking poles had been left back at the shelter at the trail head where I rested after the hike. Cleaned up I drove all the way back (about 20 miles one-way) and found them right where I'd left them - they had fallen over and I must not have noticed them lying on the ground. Having lost one set of poles here on the island last year I was glad to have them back this time.

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