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December 1, 2012

Pihea - Alakai to Kilohana Vista

Overview

An early start (7:30am at the trailhead) proved ideal for the weather yesterday. As we learned the hard way the first time out here, at the end of long scramble through some slippery mud and way out along the boardwalks across the swamp, there's an awesome vista overlooking Hanalei on the other side of the island ... unless it's socked in with fog and mist (which it was that first outing).

Trailhead

Just follow Highway 550 from Waimea (*) up the mountain, past Waimea Canyon, past Koke'e park, to the end of the paved road (in the last couple of years this has been redone from a dismal potholed mess into a nice black asphalt two lane road). Park in the Pihea lookout lot and head up to the trail head up the ramp and out over the lava rock and clay ridge going east.

(*) At the turnoff (look for the Waimea visitor center on the corner on the right, a couple blocks past the theater) past the center of downtown Waimea a large road sign instructs you to continue on to Kekaha to get to Waimea Canyon. However, the 550 begins here and is obviously the direct route up. No idea why they want you drive several miles further and then back (the roads merge up the mountain) other than to keep traffic out of the neighborhood that extends up the foothills a ways.

Pihea trail

This trail begins with the remnants of the old attempts to put a road through here (more on that, later). Obligatory mud warning: when wet this clay can be very slick, and this first part is just the beginning. Soon the ridge climbs and requires some scrambling up some steep portions on one side and the down the other. Nature provides hand-holds almost everywhere you need them, but one or two were unexpectedly loose so be careful. (I assumed that anything loose would long ago have been ripped out.) On the return, poles were handle giving stability through the slick parts.
Descending the wonderful boardwalk and stairs appear in places - but not everywhere they could be - and despite a fair amount of damage, with common sense they make it a breeze to move quickly. (Built in the late 1990s, the wood planks seem to either be holding up well or really falling apart, but rarely any state in between.) This section of trail leads out into typical Koke'e forest with dense vegetation all around and occasional outlooks over the adjacent valleys surrounding.
At a crossroads, go left to Kilohana Vista, leading up and then down, down to a nice little stream, before climbing up a bit more and opening up into the Alakai swamp. 

Alakai swamp

Between the bogs and the 4000 foot elevation, plants have it tough up here. The boardwalk enables easy passage through this inhospitable terrain. It's an eye full and very unique but not exactly "pretty" up here. Surely down in the muck there must be all manner of unusual life forms and activity. Remnant telephone poles from a WW II communications system line the boardwalk as it winds through the swamp, mostly flat.

Kilohana Vista was wide open for me with a clear view of Hanalei (distinctive half-moon bay) lasting all the time I was out there. Mostly had it to myself as the first intrepid hiker of the day. Photos need no narration.

Wai'ale'ale?

The highest point on the island is Wai'ale'ale, the wettest place on earth, is almost invariably shrouded in clouds. This morning out on the swamp fairly early in that direction, it looks like a clear and unobstructed cloudless view to some terrain higher than I was: Alakai is around 4000, Wai'ale'ale is 5000 feet. Here's before and after (lousy quality) photos -- not sure, but this may be Wai'ale'ale revealed.
First clear view

Later (typically enshrouded) view


COMING: macro shots of the flora


2 comments:

  1. Wow, fantastic shot of Kilohana Vista! What a stunning view. But what are those old boards doing up there?

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    Replies
    1. I added a panorama shot taken with my phone that gives a sense of the entire view to take in there.
      Those old boards are the observation platform, or what's left of it. As you get out to the edge of the swamp there you go up a bit then down over the lip of the precipice to the lookout. The platform gets you out a few more feet before the ground angle becomes too steep; the extra height gives a much nicer view.
      I don't know why the platform (or for that matter) much of the boardwalk is in such bad shape after less than twenty years, but I do know that hauling tools and replacement materials out there would be quite a lot of work.

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