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October 21, 2013

Piheo trail to Alakai Swamp to Kilohana Overlook

Yesterday I did one of my favorite hikes to the Kilohana Overlook (as I have detailed here previously). This is a classic and involves some trepidation (some mud to get through) and risk (the view at the end is often obscured by mist) but is always well worth it, in my opinion even if you don't get the view. Memorably the first time out there with my son we encountered total white-out that never cleared. Fortunately I am considerably more weather-savvy here now.

Weather

While there is no telling with the weather here, especially up at Koke'e, here is some guidance to up the odds for seeing the view of Hanalei when you hike out there.
  • Check weather forecast for both north shore and mountains - you want it to be clear and sunny in both.
  • If rain is predicted, especially anything about heavy rain, I suggest another hike.
  • That said, almost never will it be ideal and it doesn't have to be. Even "partly sunny" (better, "mostly sunny") you have a good chance.
  • Don't let the rain percentage discourage you. Yesterday is was "50% chance of rain" and not a drop fell on me. When they say "50%" it means half the time somewhere in the mountains some rain my fall - actually not a very useful statistic at all, and not the chances of rain falling on you.
  • The mists in the Wainiha valley come and go quickly. Often offshore winds sweep up the valley and you can see the mist rolling up and over the ridge. And when it clears away the blue ocean and Hanalei Bay emerge from the white right before your eyes.
If you get out there and have a view at all, start enjoying it or shooting photos immediately, don't wait as it might disappear after you finish your sandwich. If you see a bunch of mist, take a break and keep an eye out for it to clear. Of course if it's dark and dreary, and no wind is blowing, it might just be the wrong day. I would say as long as it isn't darkly overcast and you see movement in the mist there is a good chance it will clear if you wait 20 or 30 minutes.

Mud

People used to go out here before the boardwalks were put in, amazingly. Even with this modern convenience there is some mud to be negotiated to do this hike. Ideally, go on a clear day when it has not rained in past few days, but at any time I expect there will be some mud to deal with on this one.

Within the first mile you will have some muddy spots to either go around (or through if you like getting dirty) but it gets tricky when the trail gets steep. Most of the messy part is between mile 1 and mile 2. Usually there are some rocks and roots to provide solid ground and tree branches that serve as handholds.

Footwear that you don't mind getting wet and dirty is essential. Good grip is too important as you will need traction at times. The mud will tend to adhere to the soles so you can even slip on dry places, too.

I have found that proceeding very slowly it isn't a problem but you have to take your time, step by step. Also don't be shy about getting your hands dirty (bring a rag to clean up) and with good handholds it isn't hard scrambling up slopes when necessary. Hiking poles (or just one when you are grabbing on) provide great added stability and can be used to test the depth of mud before stepping into it. Remember the steep parts are going to be even trickier coming back down so don't get in over your head. Kaua'i red dirt is pretty powerful at staining so be forewarned it might not all come out.

For details and directions see my previous post on this hike.

  • 8.5 miles round trip
  • allow 2 to 3 hours each way
  • trailhead at end of 550 in Koke'e


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