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September 6, 2014

Nualolo hike

Saturday I hiked the Nualolo Trail which I have written about here before several times. If you forced me to name my choice for best hike in Kokeʻe this would be it. Instead of yet another detailed hiking guide, I wanted to write about the day a little differently.

Heading up to Kokeʻe on Highway 550 (turn mauka on the west end of Waimea town, right where the big sign points you out to Kekaha to take Kokeʻe Road for reasons I cannot understand) you get some great views of Niʻihau Island. The best views are usually from the lower elevations (below 1000 feet) which means the first few turn outs once you get up past the last houses and water tank. (Photo at left looking back toward Waimea of the road where best views can be had.) Repeatedly I have put off stopping to see Niʻihau Island until the return trip and almost always the view is much hazier in the afternoon so I recommend taking a few minutes to stop on the way up if it is clear.

The photo above was from a pretty clear day (click to see larger size): look closely. On the right is Lehua, the uninhabited small island north of Niʻihau. Note the other two arrows that show you the full extent of the island. Unless it is very clear it's easy to think just the taller middle part of the island, shown in the center here, is the whole island but actually very flat and low land extends a few miles in both directions. To the left in this photo what looks like another small island is actually the south end of Niʻihau: in between is connected but so low usually you can't see it.

I went hiking with a guy recently who says everyone going up the mountain should take a few minutes to see the canyon and I think that is a good idea so I make it a habit to stop at the Waimea Canyon Lookout (well marked first major turnoff on the right). Every time the light is different and I have never been disappointed. From here you can look across and up side canyons, or further up the Waimea River with a major waterfall (Waipoʻo Falls) on the far side of the canyon, or downriver and out over Waimea town to sea.

The Nualolo Trail starts close enough to the Kokeʻe Lodge and museum that I just part there. Just as I was getting set to go a woman asked about the Nualolo Trail being closed? I knew exactly what the confusion was: the Nualolo Cliff Trail that contacts the Nualolo to the Awaawapuhi Trail has been closed for some time I explained, but the Nualolo was definitely open and a great hike. We ended up hiking together, doing a brisk hike out since she had an early afternoon flight to catch. I played tour guide a little and we had a good conversation and when we got out to where the great views are she wanted me to take a photo featuring her special pose (a break dance move called "Baby Freeze"), and that's Niʻihau island again in the background on horizon visible on the right.

After a short time out at the trail end enjoying the spectacular views - it was an ideal day for this hike - she high tailed it back but I spent more time out there and then leisurely (it is uphill almost all the way) headed back up. On the right that's Nualolo Aina valley and the Na Pali coast stretches toward Kalalau on the left.

Back at the car as I was heading back home I noticed something on the car windshield - a note from Nina noting the time she made it back, in plenty of time to make her flight and whatever adventures awaited here on Oahu for the rest of her trip.



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