Hanapepe Fridays

The "biggest little town in Kauai" comes alive Friday evenings for their weekly "Art Night". Just about every shop in town is open on the old main street just mauka of the highway, as well as on the highway. Today they managed a vibrant rainbow over the hills to the east to boot.

Bobbie's had fresh Ahi tonight so I had the lunch plate for dinner. Good sized portion of fresh, well-cooked fish with lemon-caper sauce, macaroni (or tossed) salad, and two scoops of rice. Bobbie's is not fancy at all: order at the counter, sit in folding chairs at the tables outside, and dinner is served in styrofoam. Authentic Hawaiian lunch plate through and through. On Fridays they do Huli Huli Chicken (grilled outside, it looked very popular) in addition to the regular menu.

There are other food stands up and down the street. Midnight Bear Breads sells not only a variety of fresh breads but also hummus and other spreads, and their pizza is terrific if you can get a slice. Don't miss the Mango Pie at The Right Slice near the bookstore. And more...

Well over a dozen art galleries, crafts, and many other stores and stands to explore.

Arrive between five and six to get a good parking spot. You can try going late but the favorite pies and pizza will probably be gone.

You may recognize Hanapepe as the town "Lilo & Stitch" of Disney fame was set in.

My Kauai: North

Swinging around the Na Pali cliffs going clockwise around the island takes us to the other end of the road at the north shore. This area is where the Kauai surfing community is centered.

Since you will be driving around be aware that this place is famous for one-lane bridges, seven or eight of them to get all the way to the end of the road. As always, yield to oncoming traffic, but after no more than seven cars cross in one direction local custom dictates stopping to let the other side come through. (This works surprisingly well and the locals are dead set against any "modernization" widening any of their bridges.) Also, it's a gorgeous drive so if you are gawking please get safely off the road and let local traffic go on ahead at any turn out.

Ke'e Beach is at the very end of the road. It's a nice beach that's fairly well protected and when the waves get big you always need to be extra careful on the north shore. When the water is calm this is a nice place to snorkel with rocks and reef protecting the inner waters. Parking is limited to 30 or 40 cars and fills up early (get there well before 8am is best) or there is more space down the road but a good hike back.

The Kalalau Trail begins off the parking lot at Ke'e taking you down the Na Pali coast.  (For all these hikes, the only way back out is retracing the way you came. Start plenty early, bring plenty of water, and avoid wet conditions unless you like playing in the mud.) Very briefly:

• First portion of the trail is worth hiking even a mile in an back for some nice views down the coastline. Even the first part of the trail involves a lot of climbing, uneven surface, and can be slippery in wet weather.
• Hanakapi'ai beach [link] is two miles in and gives you a taste of what the coast is like. The stream running down the valley and out to sea can rise suddenly, plus the surf is notoriously dangerous here. Sadly, someone lost their life attempting to cross back from the stream just yesterday, and over fifty people spend the night on the beach unable to cross back safely until Rescue showed up.
• Hanakapi'ai falls [same link] is another two miles up the valley (that makes a tough eight miles round trip) and is a great hike if you are up for the effort and the elements allow it.
• Beyond Hanakkapi'ai you are going to be doing a very long day hike or camping, which will require permits. The rules change frequently so check with Hawaii state parks.

Limahuli Garden is the north shore NTBG location and a wonderful place to visit (entrance fee). This is where I have been helping to build a hale.

Beaches abound here of course all the way back to Hanalei, including Tunnels, Lumahai, and crescent-shaped Hanalei Bay.

Hanalei is a small town turning somewhat touristy but retaining some local color. See Local Grinds.

Up the hill from Hanalei is Princeville, a pricey, newly built community that looks like it belongs in California. I avoid it.

Kilauea is right where the coast begins to bend around to the east so I will arbitrarily make it the last outpost labeled "North". It's a tiny town with an up-scale shopping area now, including a good bakery/pizza place. The lighthouse is the signature destination here.

There are plenty good beaches (a whole other set of articles I need to write) all along here on both sides of Kilauea but I'll stop here and declare any further to be "East" coming soon.

The Simple Life

As much as I love Kauai, in no small part it also provides escape from some (but by no means all) of the daily annoyances of so-called modern life. Life is much simpler here for me now. You could say that it is artificially so in that I am traveling light, no job, solo, but it isn't hard to imagine converting my volunteer work to a modest real job sufficient to make my contribution to society.

This post by Scott Adams (of Dilbert fame) about the routine indignities of a routine trip to the supermarket is an excellent example of what modern life has become. It's a rambling piece but I think worth reading through as the most important points are in the closing section.

Driving this trend is the supermarket efficiently maximizing profits from the customers which may or may not involve actually being a shopping experience. I very much concur with this rant on maximization by Jason Fried that maximization isn't necessarily all it's cracked up to be.

You really can only maximize something that is precisely measurable: size, distance, time, or of course, money. Furthermore, these sort of things tend to be limited resources where more for me means less for everyone else. But the things in life that really matter aren't numerical and arguably attempts at maximizing are certain to fail.

Here on this visit that is more than a vacation I have enough time that I don't have to maximize. On vacation it's easy to think of all the places you want to see and things to do and cram them into the short time at your destination. Even as my time for this visit is drawing toward an end I think I have managed to move past that mentality and take each day and each experience as it comes, trusting in an abundance of time.

Near the ends of the road where I like to be here in Kauai, it's predominantly small local businesses. These places don't have the sophistication or scale to attempt these sort of shenanigans and it just isn't their style. (Foodland supermarket did recently institute loyalty cards with a healthy discount surcharge for not using them, but this is the exception to the rule.) The cashier might talk story with you, or the person selling poke might advise you on what kind because they made it and they know. When they are out of something (which isn't unusual) they will be happy to tell you where to get it instead. As a shopper, this is the kind of extra effort I appreciate, instead of the overt manipulations. I just hope they can survive in an economic system built on maximization.

Aholehole

Tonight's dinner was a treat: aholehole.

Uncle Palani and I got the leftover fish after we put a couple of lehua under the hale posts today.

The local guys caught some of these highly prized fish this morning for the hale and of course we couldn't let the rest of the catch go to waste. Said to be difficult to catch these are a special treat.

Fried in a pan with oil and Hawaiian salt the made good eating: I had three of them myself. Instead of rice we had steamed taro from the garden paddies (lo'i) on site here.

I'm hoping some of the taro gets made into poi tomorrow...

Limahuli Hale 2 construction: O'a

Hale work continued here at Limahuli Garden with a smaller crew. The rain and wind continued, making the work difficult: much of Hawaii got hit today we later learned.

Before planting the roof beam support posts there was a simple ceremony to provide mana (hard to translate ... "good vibrations" perhaps) by placing a lehua (sacrifice: in modern times, a fish) under each of the two posts.

The roof ridge went up and we cut and placed several of the o'a that run up from the outside posts to the roof ridge.

With intermittent wind gusts and rain squalls sweeping through all day long the tarp tent that had been set up was threatening to blow away. Instead of that we tied the tarp up under the olokea (the scaffolding) and everyone ducked under there when the weather was too intense to work safely. Nonetheless, everyone got quite wet and muddy.

My Kauai: West

When I first visited Kauai I stayed mostly on the west side and have continued to feel most at home there. Of the two ends of the road that I like, the west side is the drier in terms of both weather and personality.

Here are some highlights of the Kauai West Side, working from east to the end of the road to the west. The tour begins in Ele'ele which is just before Hanapepe on the main highway going west toward Waimea.

Kauai Island Brewery [link] is the westernmost beer brewery in the country as well as this side of the International Date Line (there is a lot of that out here in the westernmost island, excepting Ni'ihau, which is private and off limits, of the westermost state). Dave opened the place a year or so ago featuring ten different brews ranging from pale to porter. Often I will swing by after working in the garden and lately the place has been doing a brisk business. Try the sampler to get a taste of several beers to see what you like. I like the Cane Red. There's a full bar for non-beer drinkers and grinds from the kitchen as well.

Hanapepe is on the highway just down the hill from Ele'ele. The old town main street is just off and parallel to the highway, and some businesses also line the highway. The Hanapepe River splits the town (the old bridge is one lane wide), flowing down out of the Hanapepe Valley to the north. Hanapepe Friday Art nights are the time to visit - all other times it's a very sleepy little town. On Friday you will see several restaurants, food stalls, and over a dozen art galleries all open roughly 6 to 9pm. The galleries and restaurants are open at other times but not late and hours may be spotty.

• Taro Ko makes thinly sliced crispy fried chips from taro (kalo), breadfruit (ulu), & potatoes, too. The whole operation from slicing to frying to packaging to sales runs out of a little old house on the east end of the main street off the highway. Every morning they cook until ingredients run out. If he's there, tell Stanley I sent you.
• Little Fish Cafe is a tiny place just around the corner on the main street on the east end of town, open early mornings through lunchtime. Best coffee in Hanapepe hands-down and great bagel creations (I like The Hippie and The Veggie) and the rest of the menu of light fare looks promising. One a nice day eat out in the back patio area.
• Talk Story Bookstore (the westernmost independent bookstore) is a nice, funky local book store, mostly used books run by a friendly fellow who knows his books. Often on Friday nights they feature local authors.
• Kauai Kookie is a local baked goods factory specializing in cookies, of course. The factory store has quite a variety of their non-cookie goods as well and offers free tastes. 
• Da Imu Hut is a funky local grinds place right on the highway that does very good lau lau. Their Chicken Lau Lau plate is the one thing that tempts me to go back to eating meat: chicken wrapped in taro leaves baked until tender, lomi lomi salmon (salmon with tomato and onion), macaroni salad, and two scoops of rice. The non-meat selection is very limited. This place is hard to spot (the name is written on the window perpendicular to the road, very hard to spot and only visible from one direction): it's right along the highway in front of Kauai Kookie, across the street from Wong's chinese.

Salt Pond Park is a short drive from the highway, turn makai just outside of town to the west and follow the signs. This is a beach many locals visit: plenty of parking, grass lawn with tables and benches, sandy beach around a well protected curved bay with rocky reefs around much of the outside. Safe to snorkel inside but not so much to see unless you venture out (where you really need to know what you are doing).

Waimea eating options in Waimea are good but limited.

• For early breakfast Obsessions Cafe (no idea about the name) is open from 6am: good asparagus-mushroom omelet, good macadamia-nut pancakes, and decent coffee (Black Mountain brand).
• Good home-cooked breakfast, lunch, and goodies at Yumi's (for more see Local Grinds).
• And for lunch I like Island Tacos (for more see Local Grinds).
• Ishihara Market has the best fish and makes lots of prepared dishes and lunches: bento, poke, etc.

Waimea walking tour [most Mondays: link] is a must if you are interested in the history of the west side.

Koke'e State Park and Waimea Canyon are both prime hiking destinations. Probably half of the hikes mentioned here are up here. On the west side of Waimea turn mauka onto the 550 just before the West Kauai Technology and Visitor Center. A prominent highway sign tells you to go several miles out of your way to the long way around via Kekaha: ignore that unless you want to also swing by anything listed below on the way. (I assume the local neighborhood prefers fewer visitors driving through the 25 MPH road.)

PMRF (Pacific Missile Range Facility) at Barking Sands (PMRF) is just beyond Kekaha, the last actual city on the west side before the end of the road. This military facility is a significant Department of Defense installation, "the world's largest instrumented multi-environmental range capable of supported surface, subsurface, air, and space operations simultaneously" protecting our western flank. PMRF is a major driver of the local economy and also occupies several miles of prime beach out before the plentiful Kekaha beach that lines the highway beyond town.

Polihale is the end of the road here. Take the highway all the way west, driving past the PMRF gates on the makai side, then turn left on a nondescript dirt road (that I hear is in decent shape these days; previously it was notoriously potholed). Several miles of sand beach run west and right up to a pile of boulders at the foot of an first impassable cliff. Swimming here can be dangerous - strong currents, and if you get in trouble out here there is nothing west of you out to sea for several thousand miles. Polihale is popular but it's a fair drive to get out there. Camping is permitted.

Beyond Polihale, further west and then curving north with the coast the Na Pali cliffs dominate the terrain. You can kayak out there in summer when the sea is calm but this time of year it's difficult. I sure haven't been around the bend or even out to Polihale though I hope to next week or so. The photo to the left gives you an idea of the terrain: it's shot from above the cliffs - I hiked down from Koke'e - showing Miloli'i Beach (look for the white surf just left of center) some 2000 feet below.

Kava

Today I tried kava here at Limahuli. A gentleman brought the bowl and we have kava from Fiji I believe.

The preparation from what I could tell is done from shredded, dried kava root. It looks like a dried herb and someone said it is related to pepper. The dry kava goes into a cheesecloth bag that is "kneaded" by hand in a large bowl called a tonoa (not Hawaiian, but from the South Pacific) of water. This produces what looks much like muddy water which is then scooped up (in the hand-made cups shown in the bowl) and repeatedly poured back into the bowl, I presume to dissolve any sediment.

Starting with the eldest (kupuna) and working down to youngest in order, the kava is served by the cup. Before receiving a cup you clap once, and after drinking clap twice and the server claps a few times - these rules I deduced from observation; I don't really know at all the proper etiquette. The drinking cups are made from coconut shells, hand carved, and between drinks the cups go into a water dish.

Kava has a delicate taste with a peppery touch and afterward your mouth may feel a little numb. It was pretty good, certainly compared to how it looked. I had 7 or 8 cups of about a half measuring cup each over a couple of hours as we nibbled on pupus (appetizers).

Kava is said to relax you and to loosen your joints. I am getting sleepy - not surprising at 10pm after a full work day - but do not note any particular effects.

It was great to sit around and talk story (chat) while drinking together with zero alcohol involved.

Limahuli Hale 1 construction: Olokea

The Limahuli hale project continued today with the construction of the olokea, the ladder system that functions as scaffolding for the construction of the roof.

You will see the hale just above the taro (kalo) paddies (lo'i) at the NTBG Limahuli Garden.

Before starting today the rock work foundation and perimeter posts were already completed from work started here last November. Reusing pieces from the Lawai hale olokea, so little cutting was needed, plus with the crew having experience of building that one, the work went smoothly and quickly.

The photo to the left shows the olokea as of the end of work today. After two roof support posts go in (one is in position ready to set, the other yet to be cut) tomorrow morning, the end supports that comprise the rest of the olokea will be added to complete it. From there the roof structure will go up, working on the olokea.

Today heavy rain interrupted work a few times and made the work site a fairly miserable mud hole. The olokea gets very slippery when wet so for safety work stops when a squall rolls through. Rain was frequent enough that we moved our tent for breaks up next to the hale so we can quickly step out of the rainfall as needed.

As always, the local staff took great care of us including a nice hot lunch of curry rice with a kale salad and a ginger-garlic dressing that was delicious, and Sugarloaf pineapple for dessert. Mahalo!

Stretch

Best hiking advice was from a book that proscribed a simple stretching routine that I have done religiously after every significant hike - or during the hike before a long break - that makes a huge difference in recovery. Highly recommended for everyone, right after hiking. I've forgotten just a few times and always notice the unfamiliar soreness afterwards so I have concluded that it really works.

Each position hold at least 30 seconds. Just a light stretch is what you want, never strain or bounce. Breathe slowly and deeply.

Spread feet apart comfortably wider than shoulder width and bend forward.

Bend at the knee and grab the toes pulling your foot up to your butt.
Repeat for each leg.

Spread feet apart put weight forward on bent knee over one foot, stretching the back foot. Repeat on each side.

Feet apart, stretch out your arms horizontally then lean down to one side reaching to your foot, the other arm extending straight up. Repeat on the other side.

Add other stretches if you like, such as rotating looking behind in each direction to flex your spine.
I don't think form or order matters but just a few minutes stretching, relaxing, and cooling down will make a big difference later, especially before getting in a car for a long drive back.

Tropical Gardening 101

The Allerton Garden parking lot (not public)

Having done a good number of hours helping the garden staff with the upkeep of the Allerton and McBryde gardens, I think I have a small degree of competency and have learned a lot that I wanted to put down here. This will likely only be of any interest to gardeners and may be very elementary for serious gardeners.

The photo to the right is the parking lot. When volunteering in the garden one gets to drive down via the service entrance from the mauka side above the valley - this is a completely different facility from the visitor's center in Poipu by the Spouting Horn for tours. (I learned the difference my first day showing up at the wrong place then driving several miles around to the right office.) This arrangement keeps the workers activities out of the way of the tours, important because both approach roads are mostly single lane. Driving "to work" each day is quick mini-tour of the gardens and a treat to begin and end the work day.

The first rule I learned would be not to try and do it all. Work is focused on a specific area and to do specific tasks only. We do pick up the odd branch or something that fell into a path but only if it is quick or a major problem. At first I would try to do extra things "while I was there" and of course this derailed me from the task at hand. This place is so big and the staff is only a few people so everyday is spent doing the next thing that can't wait.

Imagining the work I would do I envisioned myself nurturing the plant collection here, but in fact the work is completely different. Mostly I kill plants: weeding. Or cut back overzealous plants: sometimes even native plants can become nuisances in the wrong part of the garden. Then we spend a lot of time raking up, picking up, pulling down, hauling and loading all the junk we extract into the compost heap. There are a couple of places they dump the detritus, one in a very scenic location overlooking the garden on the west side at the end of a former cane field rail line that winds uphill and through two tunnels: it could be a Disneyland ride except for the enormous pile of garden waste at the end of the ride.

Weeding reminds me of the other important work rule I have discovered: be sure you are weeding weeds. After a day of experience I was about to pull out a scraggly random weed (breaking the aforementioned rule by doing extra stuff in my idle time) when I asked the gardener, just in case. Turns out that "weed" was an endangered native plant that you could count the number left alive on your fingers. Fortunately I asked before yanking it out. It should have been tagged but wasn't.

Here's a recent example of a form of weeding: rescuing trees from vine crawlers. Philodendrons in this case  were encroaching on all the trees in this area along the ditch running between the Thanksgiving Room and up above the Diana Room. On the left you can see in the darker "V" shaped tree on the left leaves a few feet up the tree, or all around the base of the tree in front. On the right you can see all that is pruned back; what you don't see is the buckets of plant material cut and hauled away, two loads worth.

Before

After

Kauai Gawkers

While not unique to Kauai, of course, it's notable how many visitors one sees stopped by the side of the road just looking at this place. Spending time here, the gawkers become part of the familiar scene yet what this says about the natural beauty here is significant.

The shot to the right is taken at a popular turnout and this one is signed as a place to stop for a view (of the Hanapepe valley, a few miles before Waimea canyon which dwarfs it and is more spectacular). Nevertheless, one sees the same thing all over the place, sometimes people stop with doors open sticking out into traffic (either careless or just so struck by the scenery). This particular spot I've seen socked in two rows of car deep like a crowded airport curbside.

Here we are surrounded by gorgeous scenery most everywhere humans haven't spoiled it too much. Since the road for the most part wraps around the island the ocean is almost always visible or nearby. The lowlands are luscious sometimes jungle. Further up are grasslands and then forest up the mountain. Since tropical showers sweep through regularly often alternating with full sun rainbows are almost commonplace. I've gotten a little used to all this on a 24/7 basis but don't think I will ever lose appreciation for such a beautifully endowed place.

Waimea Canyon Kukui Trail to the river

The Kukui Trail leads from the west edge of Waimea Canyon down over 2000 feet (over 2.5 miles) to the Waimea river descending from Koke'e forests through dry runoffs through more forest near the river. From the base there - Wiliwili camp - I headed upriver into Koaie Canyon. Previously I thought this was an epic hike: nearly ten miles and almost half mile vertical roundtrip, but I guess I'm in better shape because it wasn't so bad. Do bring lots of water: I went through 2 liters to the last gulp.

Morning view from Kukui Trail of Waimea Canyon

About this hike:

• early start recommended for more time at the river
• not recommended in or following rain, the steep trail could be slippery
• 5 mile round-trip with 2200 feet vertical
• trail can be steep, slippery rocks
• bring bug spray, mosquitoes down by river
• footwear and hiking poles suitable to river crossing may be needed unless water level is low
• bring extra water (at least 2 liters or more)

The Kukui Trail is near the 9 mile marker of the Koke'e highway 550, just a small sign on the right by the road. At the same trail head there also is a nature trail loop featuring an extensive collection of native plants, just an easy 1/4 mile loop. This trail head has no parking lot but there room on the side of the highway on the opposite side (proceed a short distance past the sign, there's a left turn into a gated utility area with plenty of room to turn around and go back to park across the street).

Waimea Canyon view

From the road follow signs to the Kukui Trail trail head that starts to the right just past a small roofed shelter. Soon the trail descends in a succession of switchbacks through lightly wooded terrain.

At left is the view of the canyon from this section of trail. At a few points in the first mail of the trail there are nice overlooks up, across, and down the canyon (but not as far as the ocean). For an easier hike or a late start, you can just go out a mile or so and back just for the views. Below is a rainbow on the canyon wall to the north.

Beyond the mile point the trail becomes more exposed (the only concern would be sliding, there are no dangers of falling) as you get out into more barren terrain with crumbly rock gravel and heavy erosion. Continue down perhaps half a mile over this sloping moon-like landscape (if the moon had heavy rain erosion).

The next layer working down the canyon toward the bottom is a forested area with kukui (candlenut trees) extending further down the side of the canyon, fairly steep at points. Expect plenty of mosquitoes here. Watch the trail as it becomes a little hard to follow at a couple of points. After a good half mile descending through the trees the trail levels out approaching the river.

The trail leads to Wiliwili Camp (outhouse, simple shelter and picnic table) along side the very 4WD road that runs along the river here, on the near side of the river at this point, crossing the river repeatedly as it winds along the bottom of Waimea Canyon. I honestly do not know how you would get a vehicle down here. Maybe an all-terrain vehicle could get in via the river from Waimea at the end of the canyon where the river empties into the ocean.

Waimea canyon

If you are prepared to cross the river you can go either way, upriver or down: I went up toward Koaie Canyon. River crossings were easy - last time I was down here the water level was higher and I wasn't prepared to cross knee-deep water so turned around earlier that time.

Heading upriver the road rises and then drops down to the river for the first of four easy crossings stepping across rocks, no need to get the feet wet.


Further upriver the banks narrow and the easiest way to proceed is just to wade up the shallow water. Past the fourth crossing, less than a mile from Wiliwili Camp, there's a low dam and a shack and outhouse. Beyond that neither bank is passable so it would be wading through the water. I decide to make the turnaround as I'm nearly halfway through my water supply.

Papyrus

The return leg just reverses back the same sequence. It's around noon so the sun is nearly overhead and more intense. Near the river mosquitoes are relentless in places. On the return I meet three other hikers: one couple and one solo. Since this trail is almost certainly out-and-back the one solo guy behind me was likely the last person on the trail for today (Saturday, Feb. 16).

On this hike I started down the trail at 8am in full morning light, a good starting time with nice views of the canyon with the sun just up above above the rim on the far side. On the way down I met one guy headed uphill just above the lower forest, he said he wanted to sneak in one last hike before he had to leave and had hoped to shoot photos at sunrise but it had been too cloudy.

When I returned home, unpacking the car I realized my hiking poles had been left back at the shelter at the trail head where I rested after the hike. Cleaned up I drove all the way back (about 20 miles one-way) and found them right where I'd left them - they had fallen over and I must not have noticed them lying on the ground. Having lost one set of poles here on the island last year I was glad to have them back this time.

Mark's Garden

Yesterday I worked in the part of the McBryde garden that Mark (gardener) takes care of. Working on the hale I got to know more of the garden staff, and from the beginning I was interested in checking out other parts of the very extensive gardens in Lawai. It was a great day, perhaps the most productive I've had working there, and Mark is a veritable fount of knowledge about flora.

You can see all of this (without having to do any work) on the McBryde tour.

For a quick description of some of the botanical families mentioned below, see the NTBG site. I know enough not to pretend to attempt summarizing myself.

Mark has been working at the garden for nearly twenty years and is responsible for the part of the McBryde garden down the valley near the nursery and the Allerton. This area includes a small orchard of tropical fruit trees in the open grassy part of the valley west of the road, a beautiful hillside down to the stream, and a rock stair loop walk through a lush alcove on the east side of the valley.

In the morning we cleaned up the walkway and hillside west of the stream. I learned about Marantaceae which are distinguished by having petioles at the end of the stem connecting to the base of the leaves. Things had been unattended for a few weeks due to the hale construction, including gathering and preparing materials before the actual work of building started, so there are a lot to do and I think we pulled three cart-loads of waste out of there.

Before lunch we scouted the orchard for trimming work but the tree that needed work had already started to flower so we weren't about to touch them. I got to taste soursop that had fallen to the ground. It looks like a prickly pear: just as Mark described it, much like Jolly Rancher [TM] sour apple candy in a spongey flesh with plenty of black seeds in each compartment of the flesh.

After lunch we work on the walk across the stream where they have quite a collection of (botanical families) Zingiberales (including ginger and bananas) and Rubiaceae (which includes the coffee plant). Passing fronts dumped rain on us a few times - one time we had to huddle under trees because tourists had jumped into the cart - but we made good progress on about half of the area. 

I worked much of the time cleaning out the Heliconia (which look a lot like banana trees). Once they flower and the flower dries up the whole plant needs to be taken out. (I did not bring my camera but will be sure to next time, soon I hope.)

Nualolo - Awaawapuhi Trail Hike

This hike is probably my favorite (in the world), and I am doing it about once a month, never disappointed or bored by the repetition. Instead it has become a familiar pastime; each time I notice something new or different. This is my fifth hike this visit, and I am sure I have done it once each previous visit making a total of eight.

Update: unfortunately, the connecting cliff trail is now closed indefinitely.


At the top right is the view down into Nualolo valley from the cliff trail that connects the Nualolo trail to the Awaawapuhi trail. I won't attempt to put up photos from throughout the hike, they don't do it justice. The shots with some fog/mist would be from the latter part of the hike.



Heading out just before nine from the Koke'e parking lot I noticed the folks parked next to me were also getting ready for a hike as well. I said hello, headed off, and noticed they were right behind me. A couple of miles down the Nualolo trail they caught up with me and we started talking and I got to know and hiked the rest of the way with Kay and Sabine visiting from Germany. Even on a familiar trail it isn't ideal to hike alone so it was very kind of them to let me join them and we had a good time talking.






Hiking the loop, go down the Nualolo trail (which is the steeper decline that is best avoided climbing up if you do the loop). The trail starts in Koke'e forest and descends into drier and drier terrain, leading out over a narrow ridge to the point, back a half mile to the cliff trail junction that leads across the back of the Nualolo valley. The cliff trail connects into the Awaawapuhi also out near the end at the point over a ridge. If you are short on time or water head up to the right, or for the full tour go left to see the point. The Nualolo is the more spectacular point with nearly 360 degree view out over the valley, beach, ocean, and you can see a few valleys up the Na Pali coast. 

View out the ridge from Awaawapuhi trail end

Finally, head up the Awaawapuhi trail to the (separate) trail head and walk back (to the right) 1 1/4 miles to your car. If you have two cars, of course, shuttle one ahead to save the walk back, but it's mostly downhill and I find it a relaxing cool-down after the long eight-plus-mile hike (almost ten with the walk back).

See also: Nualolo to Awaawa'puhi Hike and Nualolo - Awa'awa'puhi Trail Hike previous posts.

Hawaiian Glossary

Just a few words or expressions from the local pastiche of language (not by any means "Hawaiian" the original language of these islands) bear explanation.

• ahupua`a - traditional tract of land extending, pie-shaped, from the top of the mountain to the ocean
• da kine - substitute name for anything ("the kind") when you can't think of its name
• grind (v), grinds (n) - to eat (v), food (n)
• kahuna - a shaman, from ka (the) huna (secret)
• kupuna - elder (a person 55 years or older)
• mahalo - thank you
• makai - the direction toward the ocean
• mauka - the direction up the mountain
• pau - finish
• pilau - badness, negative things
• pono - goodness, righteousness
• wahine - woman

Please feel free to ask in comments anything I should add here, especial if I have used a word without explaining it properly.

The Friendliest Post Office in the U.S.A.

Kudos to the friendly fellow at the counter at the Waimea post office for exceeding expectations and not succumbing to the stereotyped postal worker attitude. Mahalo!

Today I sent off a large, heavy shipment to the mainland packed in a large reused box provided by the local hardware store. I should have thought to hide printed labeling "Muriatic Acid" (which was not what the contents were) so instead of chastising me and rejecting it he loaned me a black marker and helped me black it out. Where I had tape the box the marker would not cover it up so he ingeniously produced the border of sheets of stamps which we pasted over those parts and then blacked out.

Then he really impressed me by presenting me with a letter held for General Delivery when I was about to leave: he had noticed my name on the return address and knowing I was not a local checked for it without being asked.

Nice job! I hope he enjoys getting Saturdays off.

Kilauea

Today went out to Kilauea for the day with friends from Hanapepe. We had ideal weather and easy traffic (it's almost 100 miles roundtrip, believe it or not, on this small island).

Excellent breakfast at Common Ground Garden Cafe - vegetable omelette with potatoes  and good coffee. Directions: turn mauka* a short ways south of Kilauea. Proceed down the road through gate at the end opening into the large fields of Common Ground.

Walked along Quarry Beach which was relatively crowded (the small parking area was full). It's a beautiful beach along an enclosed bay a few hundred yards across. Several surfers were out there as well as people relaxing on the beach or jogging along the sand. We saw a few seabirds flying overhead as this is just south of the lighthouse where they congregate. Directions: turn off the highway makai* a couple miles south of Kilauea on Wailapa Rd, down about a mile take a dirt road to the left (was in good condition today) down to the beach.

View from the Kilauea Lighthouse

Headed out to the lighthouse and say many many birds, crashing waves, and a lot of people. Directions: go to Kilauea town and follow signs to lighthouse. It's a national park with $5 entrance fee.

* see Hawaiian glossary

My Kauai: Local Grinds

"Grinds" is a local term for food, as in, "Want to get some grinds?" I have heard it used as a verb as well, "Go ahead and grind." (encouraging one to eat) In this piece, "Local" is a euphemism for "inexpensive" or the opposite of "fancy".

Nonetheless, these are places I really like for authentic food and good vibes - recommended no less than the fancy places I've listed, just don't expect white table cloths and shiny silverware. For most, don't expect table service at all.  You will get a unique Kauai experience and tasty food.

I'm omitting a couple of "standards" because I find them off-putting; you know those places that are institutions so while the food is indeed good, the staff doesn't try to be friendly, a little conceited by the fame of the place?

CLOSED: Hanalei Pizza (Hanalei) - good homemade pizza from the crust up, good combos, vaguely hippie-style ambiance, and they usually have ready-to-eat slices. The crust is tasty, containing a bunch of things like hemp meal and chia seeds (all written on the blackboard) and I learned from the chef that yesterday's unused dough goes into the mix recycled into tomorrows dough.

Tahiti Nui (Hanalei) - this bar restaurant has been around a long time and has live music several nights a week. I like to go from the music, sit at the bar, and have a Caesar Salad which is very good and a good sized portion. I haven't explored the menu much beyond that but it looks like the kitchen knows what they are doing. Also untried by myself but promising is their Wednesday night luau dinner.

Mermaids Cafe (Kapaa) - a little hole-in-the-wall next door to Java Kai consisting of just a kitchen, you eat on tables out front or on the counter along the side. Menu is mostly wraps: I like the Cilantro Ahi and the Ahi Nori Wrap. A little pricey considering how un-fancy the place looks, but its a good portion well prepared,

Pono Market (Kapaa) - not a restaurant but a fish market counter, I mention them for excellent poke in many varieties and an assortment of other local foods to go.

Tip Top (Lihue) - a new find I've only been there once for breakfast: the macadamia pancakes were excellent. The restaurant is in the middle of what looks like very inexpensive motel in downtown. It's a big place, and was full of mostly locals on a weekend morning. They have a sushi bar which I hear (from a Japanese person) is best on the island (which may not be saying much, haven't tried it). Recommending just on faith that it's worth further visits.

Koloa Fish Market (Koloa) - tiny place just beyond (going makai) the Koloa Old Town shops, it's hard to find -- look for it exactly opposite the Koloa Post Office. Fresh fish, poke, lunch plates, and some desserts. I like the ahi (or other fish, as available) wasabi (there are a few options for preparation) lunch plate: two good sized pieces of fish cooked just right, two scoops of rice, macaroni salad. The sweet potato haupia pie is excellent, too. Essentially no place to eat there (there was one small stool on the porch) so get it to go and head to the beach or a park to grind.

Little Fish Cafe (Hanapepe) - a new place for coffee and light food along the old town main street with a decidedly hippie style and really good coffee. I like the house coffee which they make fresh by the cup. For a great light breakfast I get their open-faced bagel sandwiches which come with a number of toppings; both the Hippie and the Veggie are very good. Menu covers a lot of blackboard space plus they have soups, banana bread, and more. Breakfast and lunch only.

Da Imu Hut (Hanapepe) - I don't think they have a sign: park in the Kauai Kookie parking lot and they are the place right alongside the highway. Hours can be variable, close early, possibly dinner only. The lau lau (pork, chicken) lunch plate is excellent and comes with lomi-lomi salmon. Very much not a fancy place but good food. Non-meat selection is extremely limited.

Obsessions (Waimea) - Another similar breakfast/lunch place in town that opens early so good to stop by on the way up to hike Koke'e. Surprisingly good Black Mountain brand (Hawaii) coffee for that kind of place where you get paper plates and plastic utensils.

Yumi's (Waimea) - Local home cooking by Yumi herself, breakfast and lunch (maybe some dinner hours). Outright the most friendly service on the island. Yumi also makes "goodies" - apple and coconut pies, pumpkin crunch bars, brownies - that a good size, delicious, and sell out quickly.

Island Tacos (Waimea) - I've become a regular here usually ordering Seared Wasabi Ahi fish tacos. The fish is raw but seared on the grill briefly, served with a wasabi mayonnaise sauce, purple and green cabbage, and white rice. They make their own tortilla for the soft fish tacos (and larger burritos) as well as fry them for chips. If you order just one taco you get chips on the side (two or more you have to buy the chips). I always get the hot sauce and in addition sprinkle some of the Hawaiian Habanero Heat really hot hot sauce they provide on as well for good measure. Limited hours are from lunchtime to five, seven days.

My Kauai: Nice Grinds

Today I met a couple on a hike who mentioned that they hadn't found any food on the island yet that impressed them (they were happily subsisting on papaya instead). Here is my list of some nice places to eat that still make the demanding "My Kauai" criteria. Alternatively, if you prefer, this omits the transplanted fancy restaurants that I'm sure are fine but are just like one finds in the up-scale parts of almost any large American city.

Generally these places are pricey by any standard. It isn't hard to spend forty or fifty dollars per person (or more with drinks) for a full meal. Kauai is expensive overall, it's a tourism-driven economy, and at the upper end of the food chain prices go up quickly. But I've felt at these places that you get what you pay for: your mileage my vary. As at any restaurant, breakfast and lunch are considerably less money but proportionally on the high side.

Postcards (Hanalei) is a very nice dinner-only reservation-recommended (or be prepared to wait) place suitable for a special occasion. Wait staff is always great. Kitchen can be on the slow side. Plenty of local ingredients, largely vegetarian but including fish, with a creative changing menu. Dine in a converted house with a nice garden (no ocean view).

Common Ground Garden Cafe (Kilauea) is a very good very organic place to eat. Off the highway perhaps a mile on the mauka side, the restaurant is located in a large spread where they grow a lot of the ingredients right there. Formerly a guava farm, Common Ground has several ventures, seeking to integrate with the local community in a wide variety of activities, the restaurant being just one. Had a terrific breakfast with good service and will be back soon.

Kalaheo Cafe (Kalaheo) is a cut above, especially at dinner. I almost always have the fish special dinner which varies. Breakfast menu everything is good. If you like sweet rolls try the "Knuckles" and usually a good array of desserts. The coffee is good: usually "Kauai Estate" and a rotating selection.

That's my short list: I haven't spent a lot of time exploring the high end, but these three places I can solidly endorse for a nice meal which I like to get every once in a while.

Runners up are fairly nice places and good alternatives, but they don't quite have my unqualified recommendation for one reason or another, often nearly complete lack of local influence (i.e. the restaurant could be anywhere).

Kalaheo Steak & Ribs (Kalaheo) - had a good meal there, they do often have fish. Very popular most nights. Full bar adjacent.

Tortilla Republic (Poipu) - up-scale Mexican with full bar, quite popular evenings.

Dolphin (Hanalei) - good fish-centric restaurant with sushi bar (I haven't tried the sushi, am skeptical) and a bar, located on the right coming into town next to the Hanalei River. They have a fish market behind the restaurant selling fresh fish where I have had good poke.
 

My Kauai

I've been meaning to write about my Kauai - the island as I see it and as I like it. There will be a series of posts that is a mini travel guide but unapologetically one skewed to my personal taste. It may or may not align with your taste, so let me describe how I like to experience Kauai.

From the start, what intrigued me about Kauai was that the road does not go all the way around. My first trip was planned spending time near the two ends of the road and for the most part that's where I have stayed since and spent my time. (Last year I did stay in Anahola, but in a remote enough location that it was virtually "end of the road". I wanted to check out other areas just a bit, and this unit was available.)

My other major rule (which dovetails nicely with the end-of-the-road strategy) is to religiously avoid resorts and large hotels and the type of restaurants and stores they engender. This includes places like fancy restaurants, tourist traps of all kinds, "gift" and "souvenir" stores, and so forth.

From what remains, I prefer places that have been around a long time, are frequented by locals, or that embody authentic Hawaiian culture or spirit. Generally such businesses are friendly, have a flavor of Kauai and some history, and relatively few tourists ideally (but some have been popularized, and I guess that's OK). As a rule, there are no dress codes whatsoever That is, any place that would toss you out for not looking presentable enough I'd be happy to skip, generally speaking. (I think shirts and some kind of footwear are good manners inside any kind of place of business, but rarely will anyone say anything. Nonetheless, one should use discretion and not take advantage of the lenience of these establishments.)

Notably, so of these places have what might be called lackadaisical policies about business hours and available items and services, but that goes with the territory. A surprising number of these places have virtually no existence on the Internet, so searching often won't uncover them.

So without further ado, let me being the "My Kauai" series with a few following articles. Generally it should be easy to find these places or businesses by searching the web if the brief notes I provide are insufficient (and when I happen to know there is little web presence I will try to add detail from memory).

I hope this will be useful to any of you visiting or considering visiting Kauai - to the extent my taste coincides with yours. Please feel free to comment on these with feedback, to ask for more detail, etc. to make it useful. Mahalo! (Thank you)

One month left

My Kauai adventure continues going along splendidly, now well over two months, and my return date is looming on the horizon a month from now.

One thing I have learned is that a two or three week vacation is not early enough time to have any kind of really genuine connection to a place. It takes a lot of time to get to know local people and become familiar with the places and experiences here. Seeds, if you will, that I have been planting since the beginning are recently sprouting and those in turn open up further opportunities in a kind of snowball effect.

Since getting here I have slowly shifted from what at first was very much what I did on previous visits (i.e. tourism) to something now more akin to living here. I'm enjoying volunteer work in the National Tropical Botanical Garden and through that meeting people, learning things, and have a regular schedule of garden work. The "hale" construction project has in turn added a new dimension to that work and made more connections, including people off-island.

By now I know my way around the island, places visit or to eat (or to avoid) or where buy this or that. It isn't hard being a relatively small island mostly developed only around the periphery along the one main highway. It's easy to become familiar with such a place and quickly feel at home.

Most importantly, people here really do live the aloha spirit. Some many have been kind to me, teaching, welcoming, sharing without expecting anything in return. That they love it here themselves is a big part of why they are more than happy to share.

Over and over I hear from almost everyone I get to know that Kauai either embraces you, or it "spits you out". I'm not sure exactly what that last part entails but unquestionably my experience, thankfully, has been the other side of the coin.

Since I still do have another month the adventure continues.

Mango Chutney recipe

Here's the recipe for the wonderful mango chutney I learned from Puna. (See earlier post.)

Main ingredients:

• 25 small/medium mangoes, just barely ripe and still firm, peeled and sliced (yields 5 cups)
• 1½ cup vinegar
• 2 cup sugar
• 3 c seedless raisins

The spices go into a sealed (cheesecloth) bag:

• 1 t cinnamon
• 1 t cloves
• 1 t nutmeg
• ½ t allspice
• ½ t ginger (powder)
• pinch sea salt
• 4 large onions, chopped
• “lots of” garlic (“the more the merrier”)
• 3 cloves
• ½ c fresh ginger (grate & slice a large “finger” of ginger)
• 3 red hot Hawaiian chili peppers (deseeded, chopped)

Cook 2 to 3 hours until thick to desired consistency.
Put up in canning jars. Makes a dozen pints.

In addition to eating chutney as a garnish to dishes like curry, it's delicious as appetizer: spread a little cream cheese on a cracker and spoon on chutney.

Also, she mentioned it can be made into a dip.

Curry Mango Dip

1 cup Aletha’s Mango Chutney, chopped
1 quart Best Foods mayo
4 T curry powder
Let sit, chill, serve.

Po'omou Canyon Hike

Sunday we ventured further down Mohihi road for a nice hike with very accessible canyon overlooks. Accessible once you manage to drive the very rough and rutted dirt road, that is. Drive just past the Koke'e Lodge and take the next right onto a dirt road marked by a prominent "Camp Slogget" (named Waineke Road where signage is provided) - you will be slogging it alright: use your discretion as to road condition, weather outlook, and especially the off-road capability of your vehicle and your driving skills. If you don't have 4WD high clearance vehicle, fair weather, a Koke'e map, dry conditions, and experience for this you should do another hike - or park at the lodge and take the long walk in (adding over eight miles to your hike!).

Ohia in blossom

If all systems are go per above proceed down Waineke staying on the main road (there are various off shoots that are narrow and lead into side properties, usually gated or obviously dead end). Don't continue straight at 1/2 mile point into Camp Slogget but veer off left on Mohihi - Camp 10 Road and follow that. There are confusing turns so a map is best until you get familiar with the area. Continue over two bridges, through a stream (only if safe to do so, obviously, and beware a hidden pothole in the middle you can't see!), past Sugi Grove Campground (at 3.7 mile point), and pull off the road at the 4.2 mile point where the road forks into two.

We walked a loop on the two branches of the forked road. The fork to the left is the one to take if you drive further; the one to the right (closer to the canyon to the west) is much less used as becomes apparent further on. Should you go further the road ends 6 miles from the highway at a picnic area where the Mohihi-Wai'alae Trail begins (which I hope to do on the next foray out here).

Now to the hiking part: whichever branch of road you walk down you will see the two named trails mentioned. The loop (left road first, then back on the road nearer the canyon) was a nice mix of forest and canyon overlook. Within a few minutes you will see the Po'omau Canyon trail heading west. This goes out a short ridge and affords some good canyon views. But this is just the warm-up.

About a mile down the road you come to the Kohua Ridge Trail. You can take this over to the other road nearer the canyon), and it continues out into the canyon (but we didn't venture out this time). You can cut the loop short by crossing over a small stream (bridged) to the return road, or (according to the map: we did not do this option) walk nearly another mile to the end of the road and take the Mohihi-Wai'alae Trail a short distance to the end of the other road on the right and loop back from there.

The highlight of the hike was an unmarked ridge trail about halfway between the Po'omau Canyon Trail and the Kohua on the canyon side, clearly visible from that road closer to the canyon. A narrow but definite trail leads down a moderate embankment with plenty of handholds for the most part and then out on a not-too-scary ridge to a knob affording good views overlooking Po'omau Canyon and back toward the Ditch Trail side of the canyon to the north. There is some vegetation that blocks a clean 360 degree view but it's still impressive and many of the surrounding canyon walls are sheer and steep, with some of the faces dusted with green giving a lush effect, others quite dry and desolate. Everywhere the ground is crumbly and while there are no highly exposed portions of the trail, it is mostly covered with fine quite rounded brittle gravel that probably could act like ball bearings if you aren't very careful out there. Back to the trail it's just a few hundred yards back to your car.

Hale construction 4

Let me add some additional notes on the hale project summarizing as best I can. The design and construction are informed by traditional practice but modernized for various reasons.

• Chainsaw is much faster and easier than cutting by hand.
• Traditional materials have become endangered or rare or not locally available.
• Nylon cord is easier to work with and last longer.
• Some building code requirements apply.

There is a recognized exam to become certified to build a hale which includes knowledge of Hawaiian, suitable materials, construction techniques, and so forth. The modern methodology is based on research into extant old hale - one from Kauai was dismantled in the 1970's and reconstructed in the Bishop Museum on Oahu, providing much of the details. Many newer innovations were developed - better lashings, adapting techniques to modern materials and tools - with an eye to maintaining the original intentions.

The hale construction began in December (had I known about I would have been there). The structure is 30 feet long and 20 feet wide and over 20 feet high at the roof peak I would estimate.

The base is made of igneous stones collected in the Lawai valley where the hale is located. At this stage is surface is quite uneven. Exactly how the floor will be finished is still to be determined - they may put in some cement to afford handicapped access, or it may be finished with gravel to make it easier to walk on a safe.

All the wood is ironwood also from the valley. I helped de-bark it which can be done by scraping it with a garden scythe or (my preference) beaten with a hammer, splitting the bark and separating it from the hard light-colored wood and peeling it back.

Roughly, here is the sequence of building:

1. Rock foundation, rough
2. Vertical pillars (with notched joints cut) are planted and secured
3. Scaffolding is secured to central pillars and braced forming a 45 degree pyramid
4. Scaffolding rungs are tied at "knee hight" interfaces with a few vertical purlins
5. Roof framing with jointed ends are lifted and lashed onto the pillars
6. A top piece is joined running lengthwise along the roof ridge line
7. Roof subframe and purlins are lashed to form a lattice
8. Long ends jutting out are cut and ground smooth, extra lashings are cut off at one inch
9. Dried fan palm leaves are laced onto the purlins overlapping 50%, bottom row working up
10. A special horizontal cross piece is lashed across the end near the roof peak
11. Two long wood poles are tied on top of this running just below the ridge line on either side
12. Green fan palm leaves are folded in half widthwise and tucked under the two poles to cap roof
13. Scaffolding is dismantled in opposite order of its construction
14. After a few days the roof tightens up and needs some patching to make it watertight
15. Rock foundation finish

Currently we have the scaffolding dismantled on one side (step 13) and I suspect there are more steps yet to come. Work continues on Thursday and should be done within a day.

Lashings are mostly "U-joint" securing poles together, with a pueo (owl) variation that has an aesthetic chevron design in the cord, and combinations of half-hitch knots for tying. Most lashing is done with nylon cord tied into shakas (I learned how to tie shakas but won't attempt to describe it in words.) In Hawaii you see the shaka hand-sign -- closed fist with thumb and little finger extended -- as a visual "aloha" exchanged for example, when someone pulls aside to let you pass on a narrow road. Lashing shakas are cord tied "figure eight" on your hand making the sign, finished up by winding around the middle of the "eight". You leave the starting end long so the lasher knows to start there and then as they work they can tug cord out one loop at a time making it easy to pass the cord through when needed (without having to deal with long pieces to repeatedly pull through). Roofing is lashed with cheaper plastic twisted cord.

Messing up the shaka is a dreaded error - making it too tight, tangling, or knotting up - as it breaks the flow of work. For instance, building the roof you have people on the ground sorting and checking the leaves, passing them "bucket brigade style" up for a holder to pre-position and a lasher to tie them in. Obviously, holding up the process idles a lot of people and slows things down considerably.

There is much more to it of course, but this gives an idea of the steps in the process.

You can see the hale now on the NTBG McBryde Garden tour beyond the Canoe Garden to the back of the valley away from the ocean on the east side of the stream.

Hale construction 3

Friday we completed (97%) the hale after five days work. The construction process included many processes and stages, more than I can begin to detail here. The following are just a few photos from throughout the day.

Rough ends before trimming

Tommy trimming & grinding ends

Attaching subframe to the purlins on the end