Nualolo hike

Saturday I hiked the Nualolo Trail which I have written about here before several times. If you forced me to name my choice for best hike in Kokeʻe this would be it. Instead of yet another detailed hiking guide, I wanted to write about the day a little differently.

Heading up to Kokeʻe on Highway 550 (turn mauka on the west end of Waimea town, right where the big sign points you out to Kekaha to take Kokeʻe Road for reasons I cannot understand) you get some great views of Niʻihau Island. The best views are usually from the lower elevations (below 1000 feet) which means the first few turn outs once you get up past the last houses and water tank. (Photo at left looking back toward Waimea of the road where best views can be had.) Repeatedly I have put off stopping to see Niʻihau Island until the return trip and almost always the view is much hazier in the afternoon so I recommend taking a few minutes to stop on the way up if it is clear.

The photo above was from a pretty clear day (click to see larger size): look closely. On the right is Lehua, the uninhabited small island north of Niʻihau. Note the other two arrows that show you the full extent of the island. Unless it is very clear it's easy to think just the taller middle part of the island, shown in the center here, is the whole island but actually very flat and low land extends a few miles in both directions. To the left in this photo what looks like another small island is actually the south end of Niʻihau: in between is connected but so low usually you can't see it.

I went hiking with a guy recently who says everyone going up the mountain should take a few minutes to see the canyon and I think that is a good idea so I make it a habit to stop at the Waimea Canyon Lookout (well marked first major turnoff on the right). Every time the light is different and I have never been disappointed. From here you can look across and up side canyons, or further up the Waimea River with a major waterfall (Waipoʻo Falls) on the far side of the canyon, or downriver and out over Waimea town to sea.

The Nualolo Trail starts close enough to the Kokeʻe Lodge and museum that I just part there. Just as I was getting set to go a woman asked about the Nualolo Trail being closed? I knew exactly what the confusion was: the Nualolo Cliff Trail that contacts the Nualolo to the Awaawapuhi Trail has been closed for some time I explained, but the Nualolo was definitely open and a great hike. We ended up hiking together, doing a brisk hike out since she had an early afternoon flight to catch. I played tour guide a little and we had a good conversation and when we got out to where the great views are she wanted me to take a photo featuring her special pose (a break dance move called "Baby Freeze"), and that's Niʻihau island again in the background on horizon visible on the right.

After a short time out at the trail end enjoying the spectacular views - it was an ideal day for this hike - she high tailed it back but I spent more time out there and then leisurely (it is uphill almost all the way) headed back up. On the right that's Nualolo Aina valley and the Na Pali coast stretches toward Kalalau on the left.

Back at the car as I was heading back home I noticed something on the car windshield - a note from Nina noting the time she made it back, in plenty of time to make her flight and whatever adventures awaited here on Oahu for the rest of her trip.

Awaawapuhi Trail

Saturday turned out to be a great day to hike Awaawapuhi trail from up in Kokeʻe out to an overlook of the Napali coast. This trail begins at 4000 feet descending through forest then opening up affording views of the wooded valleys on either side and entering drier terrain as it approaches the pali (cliffs) that dominate the shoreline on this side of the island.

Details: Six miles round trip going from 4000 to 2500 feet elevation and back. About five hours at moderate pace. Drive to Waimea and head mauka (to the mountains) on 550, 1.7 miles past the Kokeʻe Lodge parking lot. Trailhead parking is at GPS 22.141386,-159.648606.

I suggest starting early for this hike as it is often hot in the afternoon for the climb back up and out. Not recommended in the rain, when significant rain is forecast, or following heavy rains as the sloping trail can be slippery when it gets muddy. Check the weather for Kokeʻe ahead or you can ask at the Kokeʻe Museum if they are open. See seasonal and other Kokeʻe weather info here. Also see earlier post for this trail: it is a favorite standby and never disappointing repeating.

Much of the trail meanders through forest providing a chance to see quite an impressive variety of plant life. Stop from time to time (when the helicopters aren't around) and listen to the birds - at times they provide rich birdsong. About half way out you come to the first break in the trees where a wash out gives you a view to the right of the Honopu valley right at a sheer drop-off next to the trail. Further on to the left throughout the last mile you will see the Nualolo valley on your left.

The most dramatic views are at trail's end overlooking the cliffs. The trail ends just a little past the three mile point. To your left is a grand view over Nualolo valley. To your right and ahead is your first view of the Awaawapuhi valley. Check out the near vertical cliff walls shown at right, but don't get close to the edge yourself as it is about half a mile straight down.

Cliff trail closure: This trail was the return leg of my favorite longer hike in Kokeʻe, the Nualolo Awaawapuhi loop, now closed. The connecting cliff trail washed out, due to overuse while wet the knowledgeable person at Kokeʻe Museum made a point of saying. Now an environmental impact study is required as the first step in a long process of creating a new trail through higher up the mountain. Sounds like it will be years before the loop reopens.

With the cliff trail closed now one much choose between the two out-and-back trails. The Awaawapuhi is the shorter and easier trail, starting about two miles further up 550. The Nualolo trail starts just a block before the Kokeʻe Lodge and Museum parking lot, and is longer and steeper but takes you further out over the pali. Both offer spectacular views of the Na Pali cliffs from their respective sides of Nualolo Aina valley, at Awaawapuhi this is on your left (from Nualolo trail it is on the right). Both of these side-by-side trails (with a good sized valley in between) are worth seeing, but choose one according to conditions and your hiking experience if time is limited, and perhaps the other on your next visit.

One Essential

Kauaʻi has been a continuing lesson that things do not always go as planned and that it's okay.

The Ten Essentials

Any hiker heading out into the wilderness should be familiar with and carry along the Ten Essentials. Years ago I read through a list of ten things to be vaguely recalled while stocking up for a hike but after yesterday's hike I refreshed my familiarity with these. I found out that there are numerous variations on the theme and that while they for the most part agree on the most basic essentials, they vary somewhat as well. Based on three prominent examples here is a compendium in no particular ordering:

1. Navigation (map, compass, GPS)
2. Sun protection
3. Insulation
4. Illumination
5. First Aid
6. Fire starter
7. Repair kit and tools
8. Hydration
9. Nutrition
10. Emergency shelter
11. Knife
12. Footwear ("appropriate" they say but I find it hard to predict what terrain will be like)
13. Whistle
14. Backpack
15. Rain gear
16. Sunglasses
17. Toilet paper
18. Duct tape
19. Bug repellent
20. Trash bag
21. Emergency info (contact info, medical details, insurance details)

The one essential

So yesterday I was up before dawn gathering a good dozen "essentials" for an early start hiking. To get on the road quickly I packed breakfast to go, loaded up the car and headed off. I had not yet decided exactly on the hike so threw in more than enough stuff, three types of footwear, the works: I would figure it out at the trailhead and pack there seeing actual conditions, after breakfast at the beach.

I decided on hiking up the Kalalau trail at least to Hanakapiʻai beach (just two miles). Arriving at Keʻe beach, where the trailhead is, good and early (around 7am) and the breakfast on the beach part was great. Nobody was out there, waves rolling in, sky looked fairly clear promising a fine day. Back to the car and immediately I noticed something missing: my backpack (Essential #14 above). I had plenty of gear but it was in a Longʻs shopping bag which I was not carrying on the trail for obvious reasons. All the way out there with all that stuff but ... I considered and rejected asking other hikers arriving in the parking lot, "Hi, do you have an extra backpack I could borrow?" Not cool, and unlikely to work.

With just two hands I considered the essentials from a minimalist perspective. Sun protection (#2) I could apply now before leaving, no problem there. Navigation (#1) I had in my phone. One essential (#8) I knew was really truly essential: water; I would carry my two liter (Platypus brand) bag of water. I see people walking this trail without water and consider that fairly reckless: unless you are just going a short way and turning around - and you see them as far as the beach empty handed and no pack - no matter how young and fit it isnʻt hard to get dehydrated out there. Drinking from the streams along the trail is risky without disinfecting (Hawaii department of health). Water is truly the one essential.

Reluctantly, I left my camera in the car - not an essential of course but a major purpose of my hikes usually. With water in one hand operating the camera would be rather awkward. Since it's a very well-traveled trail I was not worried about emergency supplies as I would definitely not be alone out there.

Hanakapiʻai Falls hike

Heading up the trail at first felt odd with nothing on my back, but it worked fine, the two kilos of weight wasn't a problem to carry, and of course it got lighter as I went. It was a warm day even before the sun was high enough to reach over the steep mountains the Kalalau trail winds through.

Hiking light and sans camera was surprisingly a different experience. For even the most dedicated nature photographer I recommend it every once in a while to put things in perspective. At first the old habit was strong: seeing something unusual, a gorgeous view, or perfect flower, the impulse to shoot it is strong. But this time instead I stopped to look at it carefully, knowing I would not have a photo to prod my memory later I tried to really absorb it and experience it right there. With photos, for me at least, there is a terrible habit to think that once the photo is properly shot I can move on and appreciate it later on a screen. This exercise showed me how wrong that thinking was.

For two miles the trail winds along the coast climbing from the just-above-sea-level parking lot high about the water, and also following back into a few small valleys where streams cut through the mountain, and then back out again over the ocean. At about the half mile point is the first long view down the Na Pali coast, well worth stopping for a good look. The second mile of this trail is crawling with ants weaving around like a very thin moving carpet at times; if you keep moving you can ignore the ants but if you stop to gawk at the view make sure they arenʻt crawling onto your shoes and legs.

After two miles you descend to the Hanakapiʻai stream with a nice beach just on the other side. This time the crossing was an easier boulder hop than I expected. (As always use caution around waterways here. Never attempt to cross a fast moving stream when the water level is above your knees. People have been trapped overnight out here, unable to cross back, and some who tried to cross anyway have been swept away and perished.)

It wasn't even mid-morning yet as I crossed and headed mauka along the trail on the far side of the stream. Within a short distance after passing an outhouse, the Kalalau trail splits off to the right heading further along the shoreline, with my trail to the falls continuing straight upriver.

There is some serious mud along the first half mile: sticky, gooey, unavoidable, but not very deep. More of a problem of slipping and sliding than sinking in but it makes footing treacherous and is messy. Recently I complained about the mud on the Pihea trail but this is worse. Take it slow, accept that you will have to wash your shoes up, and it isnʻt that bad. Incidentally, I ran into a couple that I met on that trail last week. They did a week on Maui, a week here, and next plan a week camping on the Big Island.

By the time you get to a second bamboo grove the worst of the mud is behind you, though of course you will return through it all again. Less than a mile upstream you have your first crossing to an island in the stream and then over to the side you started out this hike from. The trail can get a little vague in places, look for pink plastic tape showing you key waypoints. You will have a few options for where to cross the river: look for where the trail picks up on the far side as hint. This time I found reasonable boulder hop crossings all the way, never set foot in the water, but it took a little studying at a few points. As always, use good judgment: sometimes it's safest to just walk through the shallow water and get wet.

The trail is very pretty here (much less mud this side) and only a few tricky spots you will want to slow down and take it easy. Did I mention there were yellow guava dropped all over the trail (mostly overripe) most of the first half or more of the trail upstream? Somewhere past one mile upstream watch for your first view of the falls - the drop is high enough that in some ways you get your best view from well away as you can take it all in.

The last two stream crossings - over to the far side and back again - are fairly close to the falls and easier than the downstream crossings. At the first of these there is a good sized waterhole for swimming that looks deeper than the large pool at the base of the falls. A few minutes walk brings you at last to the falls. You are in a U-shaped end of the valley the stream runs through with high cliffs curving around, all covered in green. At the top center a river runs out over the edge, falls a ways onto jagged rocks, and then tumbles down, spreading out, over the rocky cliff face to the large pool below. Said to be 300 feet high, the falls from that close up are more than you can take in from top to bottom in one view. Spectacular, but sorry this time no photos.

After sitting there and taking it all in for a while, I headed back over the same trail. I must have been first one out that day (along with the couple mentioned) but returning ran into perhaps fifty or more people hiking out toward the falls. After spending a little time at the beach I headed back, water nearly gone by the time I made it back to the parking lot. (I donʻt recommend hiking without a backpack but for me, that day, it worked out fine. A few times on the trail I had to duck under a tree or something and thought it was nice not to have a pack to get in the way.)

Photography while hiking is a great activity - I do not mean to say otherwise - but it should never get in the way of the actual experience of the place. None less of an expert than Louis CK recently observed how taking photos can become ritualized to the point of getting in the way of real experience. (Also allow me to insert here a recommendation for an excellent Bill Moyers interview on how digital can easily get to be too much.)

"Every single person was blocking their vision of their actual child with their phone, and the kids ... there's people holding iPads in front of their faces. "

For details on how to get to this great 8 mile strenuous hike, see my previous article. Safety first: if there has been a lot of recent rain or significant rainfall is predicted, hike somewhere else.

Piheo trail to Alakai Swamp to Kilohana Overlook

Yesterday I did one of my favorite hikes to the Kilohana Overlook (as I have detailed here previously). This is a classic and involves some trepidation (some mud to get through) and risk (the view at the end is often obscured by mist) but is always well worth it, in my opinion even if you don't get the view. Memorably the first time out there with my son we encountered total white-out that never cleared. Fortunately I am considerably more weather-savvy here now.

Weather

While there is no telling with the weather here, especially up at Koke'e, here is some guidance to up the odds for seeing the view of Hanalei when you hike out there.

• Check weather forecast for both north shore and mountains - you want it to be clear and sunny in both.
• If rain is predicted, especially anything about heavy rain, I suggest another hike.
• That said, almost never will it be ideal and it doesn't have to be. Even "partly sunny" (better, "mostly sunny") you have a good chance.
• Don't let the rain percentage discourage you. Yesterday is was "50% chance of rain" and not a drop fell on me. When they say "50%" it means half the time somewhere in the mountains some rain my fall - actually not a very useful statistic at all, and not the chances of rain falling on you.
• The mists in the Wainiha valley come and go quickly. Often offshore winds sweep up the valley and you can see the mist rolling up and over the ridge. And when it clears away the blue ocean and Hanalei Bay emerge from the white right before your eyes.

If you get out there and have a view at all, start enjoying it or shooting photos immediately, don't wait as it might disappear after you finish your sandwich. If you see a bunch of mist, take a break and keep an eye out for it to clear. Of course if it's dark and dreary, and no wind is blowing, it might just be the wrong day. I would say as long as it isn't darkly overcast and you see movement in the mist there is a good chance it will clear if you wait 20 or 30 minutes.

Mud

People used to go out here before the boardwalks were put in, amazingly. Even with this modern convenience there is some mud to be negotiated to do this hike. Ideally, go on a clear day when it has not rained in past few days, but at any time I expect there will be some mud to deal with on this one.

Within the first mile you will have some muddy spots to either go around (or through if you like getting dirty) but it gets tricky when the trail gets steep. Most of the messy part is between mile 1 and mile 2. Usually there are some rocks and roots to provide solid ground and tree branches that serve as handholds.

Footwear that you don't mind getting wet and dirty is essential. Good grip is too important as you will need traction at times. The mud will tend to adhere to the soles so you can even slip on dry places, too.

I have found that proceeding very slowly it isn't a problem but you have to take your time, step by step. Also don't be shy about getting your hands dirty (bring a rag to clean up) and with good handholds it isn't hard scrambling up slopes when necessary. Hiking poles (or just one when you are grabbing on) provide great added stability and can be used to test the depth of mud before stepping into it. Remember the steep parts are going to be even trickier coming back down so don't get in over your head. Kaua'i red dirt is pretty powerful at staining so be forewarned it might not all come out.

For details and directions see my previous post on this hike.

• 8.5 miles round trip
• allow 2 to 3 hours each way
• trailhead at end of 550 in Koke'e

Saturday: Nualolo Trail, Emalani Festival

Early Saturday I headed to the west on Highway 50 and up Highway 550 to Koke'e State Park to hike the Nualolo Trail and also see the Emalani Festival.

I was the first hiker down the Nualolo Trail that day as evidenced by repeatedly getting spider webs in the face but it was worth it to get out to Lolo Point and have it all to myself. As a bonus, the trail offered me guava much of the way: handfuls of ripe fruit would either be right in the middle of the trail or easily picked up just at the edge. (I assume the fruit fell and naturally rolled to the slight depression usually near the center of the trail.)

Above is a shot looking down into the Nualolo Aina valley to the right (east) of the trail. It's always a striking view, well over 2000 feet down the steep sides. Inevitably white birds (egrets perhaps, they just look like white dots at this distance) soar through the air here. I can't imagine that the birds are flying around up there in order to get food: it must just be the beauty of the place that makes them circle seemingly without end.

I have already written about The Nualolo Trail before as the first leg of the wonderful loop hike: out Nualolo, over on the Cliff Trail, and back up the Awaawapuhi (with a walk back along the road to boot). The Cliff Trail that makes the loop possible has now been closed so had to do the Nualolo out and back.

It was absolutely clear out at Lolo Point (at the end of the trail, nearly four miles out). I took my time just looking around and savoring the silence ... that is, when the helicopters left the place alone. It must have been a busy day for them, at one point there were three of them flying around the one valley.

Heading back I ran into a few groups, in particular a nice couple from Iowa that I chatted with a few minutes. Back at the park, in my absence the place had filled up with cars parked along the road and over a section of the meadow by the lodge, and the festival was in full swing.

I had missed Queen Emma's appearance on horseback but got to enjoy the hula presentations and live music. As usual there was food and local groups of all kinds had booths set up in addition to the show.

Awaʻawapuhi Trail

This morning we hiked the Awaʻawapuhi Trail. Directions to the trail head are easy: take the road up to Kokeʻe State Park, continue past the meadow (where the restaurant and museum are) two miles and look for the signed trail head parking on the left. Itʻs before the first Kalalau lookout. GPS 22.141406,-159.648616.

Bring the usual essentials, especially plenty of water as it can be quite hot on the lower exposed part of the trail and you wonʻt see any water sources at all.

Not recommended if very wet or likely to get much rain, unless you like wallowing in slippery mud. Check the Kokeʻe section of the Hawaii forecast for weather info. Also be forewarned that the views over Na Pali are the highlight of this hike, but it can easily be overcast and foggy turning your view into a pure white-out. So check the weather and go on a day itʻs sunny at Kokeʻe and on the coast as well.

Unfortunately the cliff trail that connects this trail to the Nualolo trail (to the south/west) that parallels it is closed indefinitely. One section of the cliff trail is well known to be challenging - loose rock on a steep slope - but they have the entire area between the two trails cordoned off with new signage. Itʻs too bad because the full loop is my favorite hike this side of the island. Now that the two trails are separated one must choose between them:

• Nualolo is longer and steeper, definitely more strenuous
• Nualolo trail gets narrow and is more exposed in places
• Awaʻawapuhi is preferred if rain is expected or the ground muddy at all
• Both have great views at the trail end over the Na Pali coast

From the parking lot the trail gently rises a bit but thereafter itʻs downhill all the way out on average which means you have to climb back out. Today on the trail we were the first on the trail and on the return saw 11 people heading out.

The upper trail leads down through Kokeʻe forest, quite soon becoming quiet with plenty of bird song in the morning. The trail is wide and well-marked (including mileage markers every 1/4 mile), flat dirt for the most part with exposed roots on some sections and the occasional rock.

Lower down the tree open up and you also get your first views of the valleys to either side: Awaʻawapuhi on the left (outbound), Honopu on the right. Below is a shot of the top of the valley looking west showing (faintly) Niʻihau on the horizon at left and its nearby small uninhabited island Lehua at the far right.

At the 3 mile marker you will see the (signed off limits) cliff trail merge in and just a quarter mile further you reach the end of the trail where the Na Pali views are to be had, weather permitting. Conditions can change quickly here, so if you get there and itʻs all mist and fog, give it some time. Conversely, if itʻs clear, enjoy the views while you can because the mist can roll in quickly.

The shot at right is from trail end looking down over a very high cliff, and you can see a little mist.

Having enjoyed the views and perhaps a snack, turn around and begin retracing your path back up the hill to the trail head.

Update: A recent article on the Awaawapuhi. Use your own good judgment going as far out as shown.

Hike: Waimea/Koke'e loop

There are so many trails around Waimea Canyon and Kokeʻe one could spend weeks up here but if you just have one day this loop covers a lot of the different terrains and sights as a sampler.

Directions to the trail head: Take Highway 50 to Waimea, continue through town, and go right on 550; look for the West Kauai Visitor Center on the far side of the junction where you will turn. Or if you want to see Kekaha, the last town before the end of the road, continue on and turn right on 552. Both roads join up a few miles. Follow signs toward Waimea Canyon and Kokeʻe State Park.

The road gently winds upward - there is one sharp turn - climbing the western edge of Waimea Canyon. You can stop at one of the turnouts for a quick view or continue to one of the main lookouts with parking and the most impressive vistas. The photo at right is from the first major lookout.

Park at the Puu Hinahina lookout which is clearly signed turning right off the main road. The trail head is at the back of the parking lot (see photo at left). Just to be clear, following the path off the parking area donʻt take the gated path on the left, you want the trail next to that heading into the woods.

Follow the trail through the woods a short ways before it begins to descend into a small side valley that connects into Waimea Canyon, but you will not have to descend that far. Nonetheless, the trail does drop a few hundred feet through a few switchbacks with very rough stairs formed by short logs placed perpendicular to the trail. At the bottom vegetation is much richer and you pass by an irrigation ditch that was built to collect water for the sugar cane fields (now gone) in the lowlands. Photo at right is what the area looks like viewed from the far side and above.

Climb up the other side of the valley and the trail opens out onto a clearing where you have a number of options. 4WD vehicles can get down here from Halemanu Road but I donʻt recommend driving a rental car here. The loop I took returns here. Heading down canyon - to your right - you quickly come to a fork. For a side trip you can take the signed trail on the right that leads a short distance up and around to a lookout over the valley you just crossed. (I didnʻt take this today. It dead-ends, retrace back to the fork to continue on further.) Canyon Trail officially starts here (to the left of the fork), proceeding first through more light forest and then out into drier terrain. There you will see a sign for Black Pipe which is a relatively short trail looping back to that clearing you just were at; this is a good option if you have gotten this far and feel like not making a full day of it.

Continuing now in more open, dry terrain you start to get great views of the canyon. Here the trail proceeds down canyon right in the middle between two tributaries of the Waimea River that come together ahead of you. 

Slowly descending and further ahead you get a view all the way down to the ocean (it was a little hazy). In the foreground are what I am told are natural arch formations just left of center.

Be careful here as the trail fades and the hill just goes further and gets a little steeper and can be slippery with crumbled rock on the hard packed ground. Itʻs a long ways down in many places here.

From this open downhill sloping area the trail continues off to the left going into trees and descends a little more to the top of Waipoʻo Falls, actually just above the top of the big drop (when there is enough water) easily seen from the lookouts across the canyon. You canʻt see the falls from up here, or at least I wasn't up for going close enough to the edge, and I do not recommend trying (itʻs hundreds of feet straight down).

There are several branches off the trail leading to the stream, but to continue on Canyon Trail you want to go down to the lower part of the stream where itʻs usually easy to walk across on the rocks. As always, be careful around flowing water, rocks are slippery, flash floods happen, etc. and you are a long way from any road here.

If you take the first branch off the trail a little further up stream thereʻs a pretty little waterfall into a pool that makes a nice rest stop. However, even if you can get across, the trail does not continue from here; to go on go back to the main trail and cross lower down as mentioned above.

If you want to make a a shorter few miles hike, Waipoʻo Falls is a good point to turn around. If you crossed as per above the trail leads up and to the right. (Before learning where to cross I have gotten lost from this point, following a sketchy that petered out on my and required considerable back tracking.)

The next trail section leads through a couple of woodsy side valleys, climbing slowly up and finally curving left and out into more exposed dry terrain taking you up the ridge along which those arches mentioned earlier are. Donʻt try to head down to the arches, instead, take the trail onward leading away from them along the edge of the Poʻomau valley.

The trail follows the edge of the canyon and then ducks into the woods, down and up more side valleys, finally opening onto a grassy clearing accessible by another 4WD road.

Follow the road left (signage photo at right) back away from Poʻomau valley. Before long you will see (signed) Kumuwela Trail leading off to the left.



Kumuwela Trail is fairly narrow and at times overgrown but I had no trouble following it through the light woods, up and down a bit. This is classic Kokeʻe forest, set well back from the canyons. You will probably hear if not catch glimpse of many birds back here, especially if you stop and are quiet for a while after you get some distance from the roads (not that these roads see much traffic at all).

There is quite a lot of variety along this trail and at times the path is fairly overgrown.

At this point you are over halfway through the loop, at perhaps the extreme most distant point from the start.

This time of year quite a few flowers were in blossom. Having hike this previous in winter time though I can attest that there are plenty of flowers even then as well.

There was an unusual obstacle in the path - a large downed tree. I expect they will get in and cut this open but until then it isnʻt too hard to hop over the top, though that log is more than waist high at the lowest point.

The trail pops out onto another 4WD road.
Following the road you will come to a junction and see this sign: go right toward Kokeʻe-Halemanu Trail.

This is a tricky area: look for the two signs shown below.

Watch for the trail sign (photo above) just before the road bends left ahead of a private residence. If you miss it and go too far you will walk right up to the gate to Camp Slogget. Take the trail branching off to the right. Kokeʻe-Halemanu leads through more woods, similar to Kumuwela Trail.

Finally, Kokeʻe-Halemanu Trail descends and skirts the edge of a private home property coming out onto a 4WD road - go left. After a while the road passes a branch to Black Pipe already mentioned, and  take the second left a branch: this is the 4WD road first mentioned that you saw early in the hike. 

From there you are almost back: go right into woods leading down, by the ditch, and climb the trail back up to the parking area.

If you want to round out the day, you near to a wonder view point that overlooks Kalalau Valley, one of the most beautiful areas on the planet. Drive several more miles up the road into Kokeʻe, past the meadow, and stay on the road all the way to the end (thereʻs another Kalalau lookout along the way but I recommend the end of the road as best). Just a couple hundred feet a little up hill is all it takes to get some great views. I prefer the area just past the concrete viewing area, the terrain is easy here. Warning: the valley easily fogs up so best luck is going to be when it is sunny (I have gotten here and seen only white mist covering the entire area.) But the weather can change quickly here so if the view is blocked sometimes it will clear up surprisingly quickly.

Saturday

Saturday was an eclectic but interesting day of hiking, sushi, and a music concert. Originally I had more ambitious hiking plans (Powerline trail to be specific, going for the big views) but the sky looked more clouded than anticipated so I scaled back and did Nounou mountain (Sleeping Giant), from the ocean side trail head.

Sleeping Giant is the popular hike to do around Wailua, both locals and visitors. I met a lady on the trail who climbs it regularly three times a week. It's a good workout but not a big deal, just four miles round-trip and less than 1000 feet of altitude. The trail is a little tricky to follow and junctions are not signed but no worries getting too lost up there.

I have done this hike before, but not recently, and it was both shorter than I recalled (I must be in better shape now) as well as the views more spectacular than expected. From the east trail head, a few switchbacks take you up through forested level and the trail opens up and becomes more rocky. Further up the trail joins with those of other approaches and leads to a picnic area.

It was already a hot morning for the climb, but from here on the ridge there was a little breeze making it quite pleasant. The photo above right shows the trail leading to the summit. As I was taking this photo people up there (you can just make out a speck of the little girl's bright yellow shirt to the right side of the dark rock forming the peak, a ways down from the very top) started waving and shouting to take their picture. I met them up the trail, took a better shot at close range, and emailed it to them last night.

At the top it's fairly exposed and requires caution and getting there is a little rocky section best climbed using hands but not difficult at all. I felt rather foolish having taken numerous shots of the view on the way up that were nice but nothing like the view from the summit.

Panorama, to the east

Panorama, to the north

On the way back I stopped at the picnic tables for water and a snack and already there as if waiting for me was a fellow from the National Tropical Botanical Garden (NTBG) I had met at the Limahuli garden. Already I am starting to just get used to things like this on the island and stop being surprised how well things somehow just work out. He was hiking with his mother and we shared snacks and I learned that he already had plans to work with me as a volunteer on an upcoming new project. He manages the "reserve" - a large undeveloped area above the garden proper. The NTBG owns the entire Limahuli ahupua'a - a roughly pie shaped area from the mountain top down to the ocean - so its an extensive wild area they have been working for years to restore to native plans. Most of Kaua'i is overgrown extensively with invasive plants, including the many plants the original settlers brought with them. In brief, the volunteer work would be maintenance of these areas being restored, and a core challenge is correctly identifying the weeds from the native (some very rare) plants.

* * *

I had dinner at "Katsu" - the Tip Top Motel cafe transformed into a sushi restaurant - and had heard that it was the best sushi on the island. I haven't done a thorough survey to judge that but I can say it was good. The ambience of the cafe is a little jarring to the sushi aesthetic (the green tea comes in coffee mugs) and there is a little Hawaiian hybridizing (the miso soup comes with a Chinese soup spoon).

The sushi was very good, fresh and well prepared. The Sushi Combination A ($24.95) was a large meal: 7 pieces of sushi, all with good sized tane (piece of fish or what have you); tekka maki (tuna roll) and California roll; with miso soup and green tea.

* * *

I attended a fun concert of hula and Hawaiian music, An Evening with Na Kaholokula at the Kaua'i Community College. Na Kaholokula has been playing music on the local scene for many years, founded by the father of the two front men, Robbie and Kimo Kaholokula, and one son is now in the band. The music they played spanned from early days of the band up to new songs, all very Hawaiian style (hard to define that). Most music with lyrics was accompanied by hula, either individual or group performances. Several guest performances were interwoven throughout:  Mike Young (slack key guitar), kumu hula Doric Yaris, and a group of west side kupuna (elders) performed hula seated on stage.

The entire show was filled with aloha spirit and evoked a strong feeling of community. As just one example, after opening with a couple of songs, Mike Young got such an ovation (hana ho) he did another song but in changing the tuning of his guitar one of the strings (new ones, he said) snapped. "Anybody have a guitar I can borrow?" he asked without missing a beat.  Kimo Kaholokula marched right out and handed him one of his. Mike said he would play with the standard tuning already set up rather than risk breaking someone else's strings. Robbie, the younger of the Kaholokula brothers served as emcee and announcer throughout and was cleary having a wonderful time. As the kupuna were assembling on stage, clearly some of them needed assistance walking. Robbie offered, "You just take your time getting set, we have the room booked until ten."

Saturday north shore day

I've been running around getting situated here: finding a longer term place to live, selecting healthcare professionals, and meeting friends along the way - both planned and unplanned. Weekends there is little progress I can make on these fronts so I get free days on Kauai.

This will be a long narrative of my day which should make for a decent travelogue. Photographs can be viewed in full fidelity in this photo album. 

Saturday morning I left Anahola before sunrise heading north, planning the day out while driving. Naturally, I decided to head for the end of the road. Traveling past Hanalei Bay it was apparent that the tide was well out with unfamiliar rocks showing here and there around the bay. Still early, I sailed through the one-lane bridges and arrived at Ke'e Beach with plenty of parking still available. Already a community group had been doing cleanup work there and had an impressive collection of trash bags filled awaiting disposal. This area has recently (just in the past 3-4 years I have been visiting here) become very popular as a tourist destination and one sees way too many cars for the limited road and parking space there is. (Of course I am one of those, but at least I don't park squeezing the car into the vegetation and jutting out into the road as one routinely sees. There is talk of having a gate and charging admission. Good for the community supporting the park under the stress of so many visitors.)

 

The Kalalau Trail begins just off the parking lot, climbing a rough hewn natural stone stair case for the first stretch that before long gives way to dirt with rock trail. This is one of the world's great hiking trails and very popular but I'm early enough (7:30am) that for the next two miles I only encounter a handful of folks and often have my section of trail to myself. This is shot from the second vista as the trail winds in and out of valleys in the mountain, steadily climbing.
On the makai side are the lush mountain slopes that make this area so strikingly beautiful and exotic. Further down the coast this all becomes even more so.

In this first two mile segment the trail follows the terrain, winding into valleys, then back out along the coastline. Soon you are hundreds of feet above the ocean spreading out below. This is the edge of one of the largest expanses of open water in the world: there's nothing for thousands of miles out there looking north from Kauai.


Soon the trail levels off and the first good view down the coast toward Kalalau to the west appears about a half mile in.

Small waterfalls and streams cross the path often at its deepest penetration into the valleys or crevices along the terrain.

Here's an example of the more rocky portion of the trail. While it gets a little muddy from the water trapped between the stones, when it gets really wet the rocks provide traction compared to the slick all-dirt sections, especially further along on the descent to the first beach.

Here's a classic shot of this shoreline looking down the Na Pali ("the cliffs") coast.

And again at another vista: if you were there you would know why one can't help but shoot this over and over.
I came upon a couple here both standing with cameras pointing down the coast. I took their photo so they returned the favor. The view is great but this early in the morning the trail is shadowed making for difficult shooting. Fortunately they prioritized the scenery over the person just getting in the way.

Approaching Hanakapiʻai Beach on the descent to the stream that empties into the near side of the accessible shoreline.

This area can be very dangerous as well as beautiful. This year there have been a number of people lost in the waters of Kauai, and this stream and beach have taken part of that toll. Watching the weather and using common sense it's fine and today was sunny and clear. With no recent significant rains lately the stream was a little over ankle deep and easy to cross.

 Hanakapiʻai Beach is a nice wide white sand beach, festooned with a large number of stone cairns.

To the right is a view of the sea cave to the west end of the beach and showing some of the surf - moderate today. People go out into the water a bit but you need to use caution: no lifeguard here, no cell service to call 911.




After watching the waves and walking the beach I walked back the way I came: four miles round trip. More on the return hike in another article to come.

 I strolled up Ke'e Beach for a while heading east, back toward civilization. I thought this shot on the left might make a nice screen background for my computer (haven't tried it yet) because it is easy on the eyes.

This beach is nicely protected by a coral reef out there where the waves are breaking (right). Instead the reef it's very shallow and flat. In the view of Ke'e from the trail you can make out a couple of guys walking out there with spears looking for fish at that low tide.

In those shallows were small schools of tiny fish skittering around. I wasn't the only one to notice: a dog was chasing along the fringes of the surf. Impressive that the dog noticed them.

Back at the edge of the sand stood trees whose roots lay exposed from erosion. And of course there are chickens everywhere.




I washed up and turned over my nice parking spot to some lucky visitor and headed back toward Hanalei.





Next stop was a quick visit to the Limahuli Garden where I had helped build a hale to see if the finishing work was any further along (it wasn't). It looked great standing there above the lo'i of kalo (taro). Buildings much like that must have been in this valley many years ago (except for the use of nylon cord and cement). At right is a shot of the interior ceiling and supports.

Just as I was leaving someone called my name; the garden director noticed me (from a good distance) so I joined them for talk story in the hale. He was showing a visiting scientist around the grounds with another staff member who took a very nice shot of me, her first time to use a rangefinder camera.

Lunch at Hanalei Pizza was excellent, this place deserves an entire article. I've gotten to know the chef there and learned a lot of tips for pizza making. Go here for more on the pizza and cooking tips.

I was planning to have a frosty from Banana Joe's on the way back but they are closing for a month (travel perhaps) and the kitchen was closed. I bought a papaya instead and headed home. Immediately I headed into the ocean for my late afternoon swim.

If this is what a typical day in retirement is, I think I'm going to like it just fine.